“How big’s your board?” I asked, after watching another vain attempt to kick into a little swell.
There is one thing gloriously certain in this our modern day and age. Sam George, preeminent surf guru, a Buddha by any other name, has rediscovered his vast mojo thanks to “the definitive voice of surfing and the outdoors” The Inertia. The silver-haired 67-year-old, “still very active in surfing, continuing to compete in standup paddle races and tandem events,” went more quiet than he should have a decade, or such, ago on the surf writing end, focusing on film and celebrity wife swapping instead.
Now, though, he is back, outing secret San Francisco spots for adult learners, murdering them too.
It is all wonderful, The Inertia’s soft-topped enthusiasts losing sleep waiting for his latest drips of pure wisdom.
George always delivers.
Most recently, Nia Peeples’ ex-husband shared with them that they are all riding boards that are “too short.”
“So I recently enjoyed a fine session at a remote California point break, sharing modest, three-to four-foot right walls with a small crew, all who could generously be described as ‘middle-aged.’” he began, before continuing:
One of our number, a very experienced surfer on the far side of 50, sat in the pack, sunk up to his clavicles on a tiny Sharp Eye thruster, patiently waiting his turn, when he would paddle for, and miss, virtually every wave that came his way.
“How big’s your board?” I asked, after watching another vain attempt to kick into a little swell.
“Five-seven,” he said, and proudly, too.
“Wow,” I said. “I bet it would work great in a hollow reef break.”
The devastating takedown led to a discussion on how too many surfers are on the wrong board, i.e. not long enough, and how they would do well to lengthen up in order to make Phil Edwards smile.
Though the word “volume” never comes up, it is a similar conversation that embroiled the surf world eight, or so, years ago.
Should the perpetual intermediate be on more foam.
It must be assumed that “thinking surfer” on an 8-foot Wavestorm Classic in rasta red, yellow, green will add the 9-foot Wavestorm Classic, Barbie edition, to quiver.
The thought piece echoed what the master told the BeachGrit community three years ago.
Always ahead of the curve, here.
David Lee Scales and I, anyhow, discussed George genius along with a robust debate on if adult males should dress for Halloween in tandem with wife and child.
What do you think about that?
Listen here.
